Repair Procedure

Note:
Read bulletin completely before beginning work.
Work will progress with ease on a cool engine.
Make sure all internal engine parts are kept clean and are lubricated with clean engine oil upon reassembly.
Use clean, lint free cloths when working with the connecting rod bearings.

Tools necessary
Spark plug socket
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
17 mm socket or wrench
22 mm wrench
Torque wrench
Small soft faced mallet
Connecting rod bolt protectors
Plastic stick for pushing in and out bearing shells

Disassembly

1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

2. Remove all four spark plugs. Removal of the spark plugs will allow the crankshaft to be rotated much easier during the bearing replacement procedure.

3. Pull the engine oil dip stick up 4 - 5 inches.

4. Raise the vehicle.

5. Remove the engine oil drain plug and drain the engine oil.

6. While the oil is draining remove the front under cover.

7. Disconnect the stabilizer bar mounting brackets from the body.

8. Disconnect the rubber oil drain hose from the passenger side of the oil pan.

9. Install the oil drain plug.

10. Remove the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan. To get the oil pan out you may need to rotate the crankshaft some and push the stabilizer bar out of the way.

11. Clean the oil pan and remove all traces of old gasket material from the pan and the engine block.

12. Remove the engine oil pickup tube. Remove and discard the rubber 0-ring.

13. Rotate the crankshaft so that the # 1 and 4 connecting rods are at their lowest point (bottom dead center).

Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement

A. Replace each set of upper and lower connecting rod bearings one at a time.

B. Note the differences between the front and rear of the rod caps. The front will have an extra "bump" cast into it. Also, the notches for the bearing shells will be on the exhaust side. Make sure the rod caps do not get turned around.

C. Remove the # 1 rod cap nuts and carefully use the soft faced mallet to separate the halves.

D. Inspect the crankshaft and bearing surfaces for excessive wear, lack of lubrication, galling, flaking, pitting, etc.

E. Remove the lower bearing shell from the rod cap, wipe the mating surfaces clean, and install a new bearing shell. Make sure the new bearing is seated properly in the rod cap. The shell has a projection which will fit into a machined notch in the rod cap.

F. Install bolt protectors onto the connecting rod studs.

G. Use a plastic stick to push up on the upper bearing shell on the intake side of the connecting rod. The shell will rotate down and out on the passenger side.

H. Coat a new shell with clean engine oil, and use your hands to rotate it up into place between the crankshaft and the connecting rod. Start on the exhaust side, with the projection on the shell going in last. Use the plastic stick and your fingers to push the shell into position. Perform a visual inspection to make sure that you have seated all bearing shells properly. The projection on the shell should fit into the machined notch in the rod casting, and the ends of the shells should project very slightly above the casting mating surfaces. If the ends do not project evenly or project too much, the shell is misaligned and must be repositioned.

I. Remove the bolt protectors.

J. Lubricate the connecting rod cap with clean engine oil and install it on the connecting rod. The machined notches should be on the exhaust side of the engine.

K. Install the two connecting rod nuts and torque to 32-35 ft.lbs.

14. Repeat the above operations on connecting rod # 4.

15. Rotate the crankshaft 180° and repeat the above operations on connecting rods 2 and 3.

Note:
Work on connecting rod # 3 will be partially obstructed by the front crossmember. The crankshaft may need to be rotated slightly to gain better access. Make sure the torque wrench is not obstructed during use, which could affect readings. Reassembly.

16. Install the oil pickup tube with the new o-ring installed. Torque nuts to 11-15 ft.lbs.

17. Clean the oil pan gasket mating surfaces of the cylinder block and oil pan. Apply silicone sealer (Oxygen sensor safe type only) to the cylinder block where the front and rear aluminum castings meet the cast iron.

18. Install the new pan gasket and oil pan. Torque oil pan bolts to 4.5-5.5 ft.lbs.

19. Install the rubber hose on exhaust side of engine.

20. Install the stabilizer bar brackets to the body. Torque bolts to 6-9 ft.lbs.

21. Install front under cover.

22. Lower vehicle.

23. Replace oil filter if vehicle is customer owned. Do not install a new filter if the vehicle Is in Dealer inventory.

24. Install spark plugs.

25. Add 4.5 quarts engine oil if oil filter replaced, 4 quarts if not.

26. Push the dipstick back down into position.

27. Reconnect the battery negative terminal.

28. Start the engine and let idle until normal oil pressure is developed, and check for leaks. Shut off engine, check for proper oil level.

29. Test drive vehicle, then check again for oil leaks.