Removal and Replacement
REMOVALNOTE: Crankshaft can not be removed when engine is in vehicle.
1. Remove engine assembly from vehicle.
2. Remove flex plate and crankshaft rear oil seal.
3. Mount engine on a repair stand.
4. Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
5. Remove the oil pan.
6. Remove the timing belt covers.
7. Remove the timing belt.
8. Remove the oil pump.
9. Remove balance shafts and housing assembly.
10. Using a permanent ink or paint marker, identify cylinder number on each connecting rod cap (Fig. 43).
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods. Damage to connecting rod could occur.
11. Remove all connecting rod bolts and caps. Care should be taken not to damage the fracture rod and cap surfaces.
NOTE: Do not reuse connecting rod bolts.
12. Remove all bedplate bolts from the engine block (Fig. 44).
13. Using a mallet gently tap the bedplate loose from the engine block dowel pins.
CAUTION: Do not pry up on one side of the bedplate. Damage may occur to cylinder block to bedplate alignment and thrust bearing.
14. Bedplate should be removed evenly from the cylinder block dowel pins to prevent damage to the dowel pins and thrust bearing.
15. Lift out crankshaft from cylinder block. Do not damage the main bearings or journals when removing the crankshaft.
16. Remove the target ring mounting screws and discard.
17. Remove the target ring from the crankshaft.
INSPECTION
The crankshaft journals should be checked for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Fig. 45). Limits of taper or out of round on any crankshaft journals should within specifications. Journal grinding should not exceed 0.305 mm (0.012 inch) under the standard journal diameter. DO NOT grind thrust faces of No. 3 main bearing. DO NOT nick crank pin or bearing fillets. After grinding, remove rough edges from crankshaft oil holes and clean out all passages.
CAUTION: With the nodular cast iron crankshafts, it is important that the final paper or cloth polish be in the same direction as normal rotation in the engine.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the main bearing shells with the lubrication groove in the cylinder block (Fig. 46).
2. Make certain oil holes in block line up with oil hole in bearings and bearing tabs seat in the block tab slots.
CAUTION: Do not get oil on the bedplate mating surface. It will affect the sealer ability to seal the bedplate to cylinder block.
NOTE: If the crankshaft is sent out for machine work, it must be balanced as an assembly with the target ring installed.
3. Clean crankshaft and target ring with MOPAR brake parts cleaner and dry with compressed air to ensure that the crankshaft mating surface and target ring mounting holes are free from oil and lock patch debris.
NOTE: Always use NEW mounting screws whether installing original or new target ring.
4. Install NEW mounting screws finger tight starting with the #1 location. (Fig. 47) Make sure engagement occurs with the shoulder of the screw and mounting hole before starting all other screws.
5. Torque all mounting screws with T30 torx bit to 13 Nm (110 inch lbs.) in the torque sequence.
CAUTION: Use extreme care when handling crankshaft. Tone wheel damage can occur if crankshaft is mishandled.
6. Oil the bearings and journals. Install crankshaft.
CAUTION: Use only the specified anaerobic sealer on the bedplate or damage may occur to the engine.
7. Apply 1.5 to 2.0 mm (0.059 to 0.078 inch) bead of Mopar Bed Plate Sealant to cylinder block as shown in (Fig. 48).
8. Install lower main bearings into main bearing cap/bedplate. Make certain the bearing tabs are seated into the bedplate slots. Install the main bearing/bedplate into engine block.
9. Before installing the bolts the threads should be oiled with clean engine oil, wipe off any excess oil.
10. Install main bearing bedplate to engine block bolts 11, 17, and 20 finger tight. Tighten these bolts down together until the bedplate contacts the cylinder block.
11. To ensure correct thrust bearing alignment, perform these steps:
^ Step 1: Rotate crankshaft until number 4 piston is at TDC.
^ Step 2: Move crankshaft rearward to limits of travel.
^ Step 3: Then, move crankshaft forward to limits of travel.
^ Step 4: Wedge an appropriate tool between the rear of the cylinder block (NOT BED PLATE) and the rear crankshaft counterweight. This will hold the crankshaft in it's furthest forward position.
^ Step 5: Install and tighten bolts (1-10) in sequence shown in (Fig. 49) to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
^ Step 6: Remove wedge tool used to hold crankshaft.
12. Tighten bolts (1-10) again to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) +1/4 turn in sequence shown in (Fig. 49).
13. Install main bearing bedplate to engine block bolts (11-20), and torque each bolt to 28 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 49).
14. After the main bearing bedplate is installed, check the crankshaft turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 5.6 Nm (50 inch lbs.).
15. Install connecting rod bearings and caps. Do Not Reuse Connecting Rod Bolts. Torque connecting rod bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) plus 1/4 turn.
16. Install balance shafts and housing assembly.
17. Install the oil pump and pickup tube.
18. Install the timing belt rear cover.
19. Install the timing belt.
20. Install the timing belt front covers.
21. Install engine support bracket.
22. Install the oil pan.
23. Install the oil filter.
24. Install crankshaft rear oil seal.
25. Install flex plate. Apply Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive to bolt threads and tighten to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
26. Install the engine assembly.