Part 1
END COVERRemoval
NOTE:
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
- Blow out all passages.
- When removing the transmission end cover, replace the following:
- End cover gasket
- Each shaft locknut and conical spring washer
- Sealing washer
- Lock washer
- O-rings
1. Remove the bolts securing the end cover (fourteen bolts), then remove the cover.
2. Slip the special tool onto the mainshaft as shown.
3. Engage the park pawl with the park gear.
4. Cut the lock tabs of each shaft locknut using a chisel as shown. Then remove the locknuts and conical spring washers from each shaft.
NOTE:
- Mainshaft locknut has left-hand threads.
- Clean the old locknuts; they are used to install the press fit idler gears on the mainshaft and secondary shaft, and the park gear and bearing hub on the countershaft.
CAUTION: Keep all of the chiseled particles out of the transmission.
5. Remove the special tool (mainshaft holder) from the mainshaft.
6. Remove the mainshaft idler gear and the secondary shaft idler gear using a puller as shown.
7. Remove the bearing hub using the puller from the countershaft, then remove the countershaft idler gear and bearings.
8. Remove the park gear using the puller.
9. Remove the park pawl, spring, shaft, and shaft stop.
10. Remove the park lever from the control shaft.
11. Remove the line bolts, then remove the ATF cooler lines.
TRANSMISSION HOUSING
Removal
NOTE:
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
- Blow out all passages.
- When removing the transmission housing, replace the following:
- Transmission housing gasket
- Linear solenoid valve gasket
- Lock washer
- O-rings
1. Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A/B assembly.
2. Remove the transmission housing mounting bolts (16 bolts), hangers, and brackets.
3. Install a 5 x 0.8 mm bolt in the reverse idler gear shaft as shown, then remove the reverse idler gear shaft/holder assembly.
4. When removing the transmission housing from the torque converter housing, move the reverse idler gear out of way of the countershaft 2nd gear in the direction shown.
NOTE: The transmission housing will not separate from the torque converter housing if the reverse idler gear is not moved.
5. Align the spring pin on the control shaft with the transmission housing groove by turning the control shaft.
6. Install the special tool over the mainshaft, then remove the transmission housing as shown.
NOTE: If the top arm of your. housing puller is too short, replace it with Housing Puller Arm, 205 mm, 07SAC-POZO101.
7. Remove the reverse idler gear from the transmission housing.
8. Remove the countershaft 2nd gear, then slide and remove the countershaft reverse gear and the needle bearing.
9. Remove the bolt securing the shift fork, then remove the shift fork, reverse selector, reverse selector hub, and countershaft 4th gear.
10. Remove the secondary shaft sub-assembly.
11. Remove the mainshaft sub-assembly.
12. Remove the countershaft sub-assembly.
13. Remove the differential assembly.
TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING/VALVE BODY
Removal
NOTE:
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
- Blow out all passages.
- When removing the valve body, replace the O-rings
1. Remove the ATF feed pipes from the main valve body, regulator valve body, and servo body.
2. Remove the servo detent base (two bolts).
3. Remove the ATF stainer (two bolts).
4. Remove the accumulator cover (two bolts).
NOTE: The accumulator cover is spring loaded. To prevent stripping the threads in the servo body, press down on the accumulator cover while unscrewing the bolts in a crisscross pattern.
5. Remove the bolts securing the servo body (nine bolts), then remove the servo body, and servo separator plate.
6. Remove the accumulator body (six bolts).
7. Remove the regulator valve body (eight bolts).
8. Remove the stator shaft and stator shaft stop.
9. Unhook the detent spring from the detent arm, then remove the detent arm shaft, detent arm, and control shaft.
10. Remove the cooler check valve spring and cooler check valve (steel ball).
11. Remove the main valve body (four bolts).
12. Remove the torque converter check valve and spring.
13. Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft, then remove the ATF pump gears.
14. Remove the main separator plate and dowel pins (three).
15. Clean the inlet opening of the ATF strainer thoroughly with compressed air, then check that it is in good condition, and the inlet opening is not clogged or damaged.
16. Test the ATF strainer by pouring clean ATF through the inlet opening. Replace it if it is clogged or damaged.
NOTE: The ATF strainer can be reused if it is not clogged or damaged.
VALVE BODY
Repair
NOTE: This repair is only necessary if one or more of the valves in a valve body do not slide smoothly in their bores. Use this procedure to free the valves.
1. Soak a sheet of #600 abrasive paper in ATF for about 30 minutes.
2. Carefully tap the valve body so the sticking valve drops out of its bore. It may be necessary to use a small screwdriver to pry the valve free. Be careful not to scratch the bore with the screwdriver.
3. Inspect the valve for any scuff marks. Use the ATF soaked #600 paper to polish off any burrs that are on the valve, then wash the valve in solvent and dry it with compressed air.
4. Roll up half a sheet of ATF-soaked #600 paper and insert it in the valve bore of the sticking valve. Twist the paper slightly, so that it unrolls and fits the bore tightly, then polish the bore by twisting the paper as you push it in and out.
NOTE: The valve body is aluminum and doesn't require much polishing to remove any burrs.
5. Remove the #600 paper. Thoroughly wash the entire valve body in solvent, then dry it with compressed air.
6. Coat the valve with ATF, then drop it into its bore. It should drop to the bottom of the bore under its own weight. If not, repeat step 4, then retest. If the valve still sticks, replace the valve body.
7. Remove the valve, and thoroughly clear it and the valve body with solvent. Dry all parts with compressed air, then reassemble using ATF as a lubricant.
VALVE
Assembly
NOTE: Coat all parts with ATF before assembly.
Install the valve, valve spring, and valve cap in the valve body, then secure them with the valve cap clip.
Set the spring in the valve, then install it in the valve body. Push the spring in with a screwdriver, then install the spring seat.
VALVE CAPS
Description
- Caps with one projected tip and one flat end are installed with the flat end toward the inside of the valve body.
- Caps with a projected tip on each end are installed with the smaller tip toward the inside of the valve body. The small tip is a spring guide.
- Caps with one projected tip and a hollow end are installed with the tip toward the inside of the valve body. The tip is a spring guide.
- Caps with one projected tip and flat end are installed with the tip toward the inside of the valve body. The tip is a spring guide. The groove is a valve cap clip guide.
- Caps with hollow ends are installed with the hollow end away from the inside of the valve body.
- Caps with notched ends are installed with the notch toward the inside of the valve body.
- Caps with flat ends and a hole through the center are installed with the smaller hole toward the inside of the valve body.
- Caps with flat ends and a groove around the cap are installed with the grooved side toward the outside of the valve body.
ATF PUMP
Inspection
1. Install the ATF pump gears and ATF pump driven gear shaft in the main valve body.
NOTE:
- Lubricate all parts with ATF during inspection.
- Install the ATF pump driven gear with its grooved and chamfered side facing up as shown.
2. Measure the side clearance of the ATF pump drive and driven gears.
3. Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft. Measure the thrust clearance of the ATF pump driven gear-to-valve body.
MAIN VALVE BODY
Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly
NOTE:
- Do not use a magnet to remove the check valve ball; it may magnetize the ball.
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages.
- Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, see Valve Body Repair.
- Replace the valve body as an assembly if any parts worn or damaged.
- Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
- Install the filter in the direction shown.
Sectional View
REGULATOR VALVE BODY
Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly
NOTE:
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages.
- Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, see Valve Body Repair.
- Replace the valve body as an assembly if any parts are worn or damaged.
1. Hold the regulator spring cap in place while removing the stop bolt. The regulator spring cap is spring loaded. Once the stop bolt is removed, release the spring cap slowly so it does not pop out.
2. Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly procedure. Install the filter in the direction shown.
NOTE:
- Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
- Align the hole in the regulator spring cap with the hole in the valve body, then press the spring cap into the valve body, and tighten the stop bolt.
ACCUMULATOR BODY
Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly
NOTE:
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages.
- Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
SERVO BODY
Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly
NOTE:
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages.
- Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, see Valve Body Repair.
- Replace the valve body as an assembly if any parts are worn or damaged.
- Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
- Replace the CPC valve springs A and B, and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A/B assembly as a set, if replacement of either CPC valve spring is required.
MAINSHAFT
Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly
NOTE:
- Lubricate all parts with ATF during reassembly.
- Inspect the thrust needle bearing and the needle bearing for galling and rough movement.
- Before installing the O-rings, wrap the shaft splines with tape to prevent damage to the O-rings.
- Locknut has left-hand threads.
- Install the conical spring washer in the direction shown.
- Inspect condition of the sealing rings. If the sealing rings are worn, distorted, or damaged, replace them.
Inspection
NOTE: Lubricate all parts with ATF during assembly.
1. Assemble the parts below on the mainshaft.
NOTE: Do not assemble the O-rings during inspection.
2. Hold the 4th gear collar against the clutch assembly, then measure the clearance between the clutch guide and the 4th gear collar with a feeler gauge as shown.
STANDARD: 0.03 - 0.11 mm (0.001 - 0.00.4 inch)
NOTE: Take measurement in at least three places, and use the average as the actual clearance.
3. If the clearance is out of standard, remove the thrust shim and measure its thickness.
4. Select and install a new shim, then recheck.
THRUST SHIM, 41 x 72 mm
5. After replacing the thrust shim, make sure the clearance is within standard.
SEALING RINGS
Replacement
The sealing rings on the mainshaft are synthetic resin with chamfered ends. Check the condition of the sealing rings, and replace them only if they are worn, distorted, or damaged.
NOTE: Lubricate all parts with ATF during assembly.
1. For better fit, squeeze the sealing ring together slightly before installing them.
2. Install new sealing rings on the mainshaft.
3. After installing the sealing rings, verify the following:
- The sealing rings are fully seated in the groove.
- The sealing rings are not twisted.
- The chamfered ends of the sealing rings are properly joined.
COUNTERSHAFT
Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly
NOTE:
- Lubricate all parts with ATF during reassembly.
- Inspect the thrust needle bearing and the needle bearing for galling and rough movement.
- Install the conical spring washer in the direction shown.
Disassembly
1. Remove the reverse selector hub and the 4th gear using a universal two-jaw (or three-jaw) puller as shown.
NOTE:
- Some of the reverse selector hubs are not press-fit, and can be removed without using a puller.
- Place a shaft protector between the puller and countershaft to prevent damage to the countershaft.
2. Remove the needle bearing, snap ring, distance collar, and 31 mm cotters from the countershaft.
3. Remove the 1st gear and 3rd gear together from the countershaft using a puller as shown.
NOTE: Place a shaft protector between the puller and countershaft to prevent damage to the countershaft.
Reassembly
NOTE: Lubricate all parts with ATF during assembly.
1. Align the shaft splines with those on 1st gear, then press the countershaft into the 1st gear using a press as shown.
NOTE:
- Place an attachment between the press and countershaft to prevent damaging the countershaft.
- Stop pressing the countershaft when the 1st gear contacts the final drive gear.
2. Align the shaft splines with those on 3rd gear, then press the countershaft into the 3rd gear using a press as shown.
NOTE:
- Place an attachment between the press and countershaft to prevent damaging the countershaft.
- Stop pressing the countershaft when the 3rd gear contacts the 1st gear.
3. Install the 31 mm cotters, distance collar, snap ring, needle bearing, and 4th gear on the countershaft.
4. Install the reverse selector hub on the countershaft, and then press the reverse selector hub using the special tool and a press as shown.
NOTE: Some of the reverse selector hubs are not press-fitted and can be installed without using the special tool and a press.
BEARING HUB
Bearing Replacement
NOTE: Check the bearing for wear, damage, and rough movement. If the bearing is worn or damaged, replace it.
1. Remove the bearing from the bearing hub using a bearing separator and a press as shown.
2. Install the new bearing on the bearing hub using the special tool and a press as shown.
SECONDARY SHAFT
Disassembly/Inspection/Reassembly
NOTE:
- Lubricate all parts with ATF during reassembly.
- Inspect the thrust needle bearing and the needle bearing for galling and rough movement.
- Before installing the O-rings, wrap the shaft splines with tape to prevent damage to the O-rings.
- Install the conical spring washer in the direction shown.
Inspection
NOTE: Lubricate all parts with ATF during assembly.
1. Assemble the parts below on the secondary shaft.
2. Measure the clearance between the 38 x 56.5 mm splined washer and cotters with a feeler gauge.
STANDARD: 0.07 - 0.15 mm (0.003 - 0.006 inch)
NOTE: Take measurements in at least three places, and use the average as the actual clearance.
3. If the clearance is out of standard, remove the splined washer, and measure its thickness.
4. Select and install a new splined washer, then recheck.
SPLINED WASHER, 38 x 56.5 mm
5. After replacing the splined washer, make sure that the clearance is within standard.
6. Remove the 27 x 47 x 5 mm thrust washer from the mainshaft.
7. Assemble the parts below on the secondary shaft.
NOTE: Do not assemble the O-rings during inspection.
8. Set the dial indicator to the 2nd gear as shown.
9. Hold the 27 x 47 x 5 mm thrust washer against the clutch assembly, and measure the 2nd gear axial clearance while moving the 2nd gear.
STANDARD: 0.04 - 0.12 mm (0.002 - 0.005 inch)
NOTE: Take measurements in at least three places, and use the average as the actual clearance.
10. If the clearance is out of standard, remove the 37 x 55 mm thrust shim and measure its thickness.
11. Select and install a new thrust shim, then recheck.
THRUST SHIM, 37 x 55 mm
12. After replacing the thrust shim, make sure that the clearance is within standard.
13. Be sure to install the 27 x 47 x 5 mm thrust washer on the mainshaft.